The second collaboration with makeup artist Yuriko Hegay and model Mimi Graczyk resulted in this image of Mimi working with a blackberry. Processing here is primarily a single image tone map in Nik HDR Efex after initial beauty processing in Photoshop CS5.
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Technical: Nikon D700, AF Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8, Broncolor studio strobe, f/22 @ 1/100s, handheld
Model Mimi Graczyk wears and outfit form Suzanne Lay’s Fall 2012 line, with hair and makeup by Yuriko Hegay. This version is a Lightroom 3 grunge process look I reverse engineered from the movie, Domino (2005) and my official pick.
Trying something new this year, this is hand colored on a B&W blue/green split tone that Richard Avedon used in the mid-1970s.
This is the official look for Suzanne Lay editorial work, made in Lighroom 3, loosely based on the process used for the movie, 300 (2006).
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Technical: Nikon D700, Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8, ring flash, handheld, ISO 800, f/4.0 @ 100/s. Processing steps in Lightroom 3, Photoshop CS5, Nik Color Efex Pro 4, Nik Dfine.
Model Kimberly Andert, with hair and makeup by Yuriko Hegay, is wearing a dress by designer Caroline Willard. This first version is the result of my basic fashion process.
The umbrella is lit with a Calumet Quattro daylight fluorescent fixture and the main light on the model is a small strip light powered by a Broncolor Flashman head. The fluorescent light is distinctly green, in spite of the claimed photo grade daylight balance, so I corrected the cast with Nik Vivenza.
The 1970s Exploitation Grunge look is courtesy a sample recipe for Nik Color Efex 4.
This cyan/sepia split tone from Nik Color Efex Pro 2 has recently become a favorite for me.
The Black Gold sample recipe for Nik Color Efex Pro 4 was the starting point for this transformation.
The look of 1960s fashion glossies, with stark contrast and Ilford HP5, inspired this version created in Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Finally, tone mapping in Nik HDR Efex added some texture and detail.
| Technical | |
| Camera: | Nikon D700 |
| Lens: | AF-S Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8 ED |
| Exposure: | ISO 100, f/11 @ 1/8s, Daylight WB, RAW |
| Lighting: | Broncolor Flashman head in Small Chimera Super Pro bank |
| Support: | Handheld |
| Location: | Grand Center Artists Studio |
| Dates: | Capture – December 26, 2011, Processed - December 27, 2011 |
| Processing: | Lightroom 3, Nik Color Efex Pro 4, Nik Silver Efex Pro 2, Photoshop CS5, Nik HDR Efex |
This picture of model Mimi Graczyk, with hair and makeup by Yuriko Hegay, is an example of a single light technique that I first noticed in the 1960′s studio work of Richard Avedon and David Bailey. The approach is at once modern and classical. Here is my analysis. If you’d care to comment, I’d love to know which version of Mimi you prefer.
North Window Light
The position and quality of the single light, in this case, a small Chimera Super Pro light bank for a Broncolor Flashman head, is intended to look like North window light. Positioned opposite the light is a large black flag to kill any ambient bounce. Strong side light like this creates a profile contour delineation of the face, which carries considerable drama. For me it is important to catch light in the dark side eye and create the so called “cheek triangle” in the shadow to add depth cues. The wall behind Mimi is pure white, lit by spill from the bank. I like to flag off the bank side of the wall to create a subtle checkerboard effect with the subject.
Lens Selection
I like a slightly long lens to flatten the perspective for this kind of picture, which I think makes the subject feel slightly distant. David Bailey and Irving Penn used “normal” focal length for a number of their portraits like this, which gives the viewer the feeling one is standing too close to the subject.
Processing
The monochrome above is actually a cyan and sepia split tone, popular in the 1970s, that give the image a richer feel than pure black and white. Contrast is pumped up pretty high to emphasize the black. The monochrome versions here were made with Nik Silver Efex Pro.
This is the raw picture output from my basic beauty and fashion processing, which includes steps in Lightroom, Photoshop, Nik Vivenza and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Draining and shifting the color somewhat is the “300″ Antiquity process. I think it is very effective with this kind of light and subject.
I call this the “Grainy Nude” setting in Nik Silver Efex 2 because the combined grain and low structure help smooth skin tones in areas makeup is unlikely to spread.
Finally, an almost pure B&W version, but for a rish coffee base stain.
| Technical | |
| Camera: | Nikon D700 |
| Lens: | AF Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D |
| Exposure: | ISO 100, f/22 @ 1/125s, Daylight WB, RAW |
| Lighting: | Broncolor Flashman head in Small Chimera Super Pro bank |
| Support: | Gitzo Basalt Tripod and Acratech GP-2 ball head and leveling base |
| Location: | Grand Center Artists Studio |
| Dates: | Capture – December 19, 2011, Processed - December 22, 2011 |
| Processing: | Lightroom 3, Nik Color Efex Pro 4, Nik Silver Efex Pro 2, Photoshop CS5 |
